The airport run: what the 45 minutes actually look like
Guadalajara's airport sits at the southern edge of the city, which is good news for Lakeside travellers: you skip the metro traffic entirely. The road south on Highway 44 through Tlajomulco and then the Chapala–Guadalajara highway puts you at Chapala town in roughly 40 minutes and Ajijic in about 50, traffic depending. On a Friday evening in the rainy season, add twenty minutes. Arriving mid-week, mid-morning is the calmest window. Airport taxis and pre-booked private transfers charge per vehicle rather than per person, so two or more passengers travelling together usually find that the simplest option; shared shuttles cost less but wait for a full load.
You will see three distinct arrival experiences depending on where you book. Chapala is the commercial centre, closest to the airport, with the malecón, the pier and the bus terminal within a few blocks. Ajijic, fifteen minutes further west, is the walkable village most first-time visitors picture, with cobbled streets running down to a small pier. Jocotepec, another twenty minutes past Ajijic, is quieter and cheaper but demands a car. If you are arriving after dark, I would book in Chapala or Ajijic and leave Jocotepec for a return trip.
Driving yourself versus being driven
Rental cars are available at the airport from the major international brands, and the highway south is straightforward and signposted. The catch is village parking: Ajijic's centre has narrow one-way streets and very limited spaces, so confirm your hotel has a garage before you commit to a car. Rates for a week's rental typically land in a mid-range band, and Mexican rental insurance is not optional in practice. If you plan to stay mostly in one town, taxis and the occasional rideshare cover the short hops between Ajijic and Chapala for less than the rental.
For anyone planning day trips to Guadalajara, the tequila distilleries around Tequila, or the south shore villages reached by the Chapala–Mezcala ferry, a car earns its keep. For a two- or three-night stay centred on the lake, it does not. My recommendation: book a transfer in, stay in Ajijic, and hire a driver for the one day you want to range further. The local bus between Chapala and Jocotepec runs along the main road and is cheap and frequent, but slow and crowded at commuter hours.
Where to base yourself, and when to come
Ajijic suits travellers who want to walk to breakfast, browse the Wednesday market and sit on a terrace at sunset. Hotel stock runs from small guesthouses around the plaza to comfortable mid-range properties on the Carretera, and weekend rates rise noticeably from December through March when winter visitors arrive. Chapala town is more functional and better value, with the lakefront promenade and the old railway station as anchors; it is also the transport hub, which matters if you are not driving. Book either for a first visit, but choose Ajijic if the trip is short.
The dry season, November to April, gives clear skies and cool evenings; May is hot and hazy before the rains break in June. July and August bring dramatic afternoon downpours and very green hills, with lower hotel rates and fewer visitors. Jocotepec makes sense in January around its patron saint festivities, when the town fills up, but otherwise I would skip it as a base unless you have a car and want a quiet week. Its lakefront is pleasant rather than spectacular.
Practical detail that saves an afternoon
Bring pesos. Airport exchange counters are convenient but uncompetitive; a few thousand pesos from an ATM in the arrivals hall covers the transfer and the first day. Most Lakeside hotels accept cards, but small restaurants, the bus and market stalls do not. Chapala's altitude is around 1,500 metres, noticeably lower and warmer than Guadalajara, so pack lighter layers than you would for the city. English is widely spoken in Ajijic businesses, less so in Chapala town and much less in Jocotepec, where a few phrases of Spanish go a long way.
Finally, set expectations on the lake itself. Lake Chapala is vast and beautiful at a distance, but the waterfront in Chapala and Ajijic is not a swimming beach; the shoreline is rocky and the water quality varies. Travellers who arrive expecting a resort lake are disappointed. Travellers who arrive expecting a string of relaxed towns, good food and a mountain backdrop get exactly that. When you book, prioritise a hotel with a pool or garden, because the lakeside terraces are where you will spend your afternoons.